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Due to popular demand, here is a brief primer on how I do some of my post-processing. In this example, I'm using an appropriate image for a watery blogger -- a nice sunset over the water at our marina.
Only it doesn't look that impressive... Or does it?
Anytime I take photographs intended to be something more than just snapshots, I'm careful with my framing and exposure. In this instance the framing looked good and the colors were gorgeous, but I wanted the water to be softer looking, which dictated a longer exposure and a smaller aperture. So a little bit of trial and error gave me a good exposure:
- ISO 100 -- This low ISO setting is for the absolute best quality image; the higher this number goes, the more noise is introduced by the imaging chip.
- 18mm -- This is the widest-angle focal length I currently have, which I really prefer for landscapes; the wider the better.
- f/20 -- Because the water is going to be softened, the exposure has to be lengthened. But to compensate for the longer exposure, the aperture needs to be smaller to let in less light. This is the smallest aperture this lens can achieve at this focal length.
- 25 seconds -- This is the length of time I found the water to look at it's best for this specific shot.
So here is the final photo taken straight out of the camera -- without any post-processing work done to it whatsoever; all I've done is simply convert the RAW file to a JPG image from within
Adobe Lightroom. Note that the sky and water are both nicely exposed and neither has any section that's blown out; however, the grass and trees along the shore are too under-exposed and devoid of both detail and color.
From this point forward every step is performed using Adobe Lightroom 4.1. A word to the wise: small changes to an image are much better than large changes and the smaller changes will help keep the image from looking over-processed.

My first step is to enable the lens profile, so as to eliminate lens distortion (below).

Next I remove chromatic aberrations (CA). In this image (below) CA is not a big factor, so the effect is very subtle, though it can be seen when the image is greatly enlarged. Lightroom 4.1 has the absolute best CA removal tool I've ever used and really takes a lot of the tedious factor out of post-processing.

Now I crop the image to straighten the horizon (below).

Now the real meat of the post-processing begins and I apply auto-tone (below). Years ago the auto-tone feature was really bad in both Photoshop and Lightroom, and everyone recommended against using it, but Adobe has listened to the critical comments of their user base and adjusted the auto-tone algorithms to deliver much improved results. Are they perfect? No. I simply use them as a quick stepping stone and refine the results myself. In the case of Lightroom 4.1, I find that using the auto-tone feature still bumps up the total exposure too much, so I usually change that specific setting back to zero (0.00) before proceeding.

In this case, the exposure setting was slightly too high and I set it back to zero (below). This gives me the balance between lights and darks that I want for the image.

I want more detail in the clouds and Lightroom allows me to knock down the highlights (below).

I want to begin adjusting the colors in the sky to be closer to what I remember them as being and adjust the tint to more of a magenta (below).

The sky isn't blue enough, so I adjust the temperature to be cooler (below).

That's looking good, so now I begin to play with vibrance (below).

Then an adjustment of saturation and clarity (below).

Finally I have the colors as I want them and the only step I have left remaining is to apply sharpening (below). This is the finished image, which I have paired with the original so you can see them together at the same time.


Note that both color and details can be seen in the sections of grass and trees now and that nothing appears overdone throughout the entire image. It's ready to share!